Here’s a plan for a gentle but full day exploring the south east and southern coast of the island. A bit of nature, a touch of culture, time for a swim, and a plate of fresh fish to round it off. No rush, just follow the rhythm of the day.

First stop: Las Grietas. Just outside of Tías, you’ll find Las Grietas, a natural crack along the slope of Montaña Blanca that reveals layer after layer of volcanic rock from past eruptions. It’s become quite a popular spot after COVID, so try to visit early in the morning when it’s still quiet and the light is soft. It’s a striking and very photogenic place.

Next, a visit to José Saramago’s House Museum. Also in Tías, this is a beautiful stop whether or not you’re familiar with his work. Saramago, a Portuguese Nobel Prize winner, described the home as “a house made of books”. The tour is intimate, inspiring and calm. A moment of quiet reflection in a space filled with stories.

Ready for a swim? Head down to Playa Quemada, a small fishing village that feels worlds away from the island’s more touristy corners. The beach is simple, peaceful, and just right for a refreshing dip.

Or maybe you’re up for a walk? Park in the village and you’ll spot a coastal path that climbs up over the cliffs. It’s part of the Natural Park of Los Ajaches and the trail leads past a few hidden coves, with stunning ocean views along the way. Your destination? A magical spot known as the Secret Garden of Femés.

This handmade cactus garden was created by a local family, using driftwood and marine objects collected from the shore. It’s about 3 km from Playa Quemada, and when you arrive, you’ll know. It’s unexpected and charming, like something from a dream. The way back is the same route.

After a walk or a swim… time to eat. A fresh fish lunch right by the sea always hits the spot. There are several laid-back seafront restaurants in Playa Quemada, where you can take your time and enjoy the view.

Before heading home take a slow stroll along the edge of the village. Even though much of the coast is rocky, there are a few hidden paths down to the sea if you’re in the mood for a final dip.

Playa Quemada is also a great spot on cloudy or windy days in the north. It tends to stay sunny and calm thanks to its position on the sheltered southern coast, a little southern refuge that’s worth bookmarking.